My orchid's flowers fell off. Now what?

A node is one of the small bumps along the spike, each wrapped in a little papery sheath. Each one holds a sleeping bud.

Option 1: cut above a node. The American Orchid Society, the New York Botanical Garden and Iowa State Extension all cut just above the second node, below any dried part of the spike. A new branch may bloom in about 8 to 12 weeks, though none of them promises it. Other sources pick a slightly different node: NC State cuts above the first node below the faded flowers, and the RHS above the highest node. What they share: cut above a healthy, green node partway down. The AOS adds that the repeat bloom is usually smaller, so try it only on a strong plant.

Option 2: cut at the base. The AOS and the RHS both say a base cut means waiting longer, but the next spike is stronger with bigger flowers. The AOS also says a weak plant, one with poor roots or a young one should get the base cut, so its energy goes into leaves and roots.

Brown and dry? Once the spike browns, it's finished. Cut it off as low as you can.

One exception: novelty moth orchids. The AOS says some moth orchids with star-shaped flowers and short, sometimes branched spikes keep flowering from the same spike for a long time. Leave those spikes on while they're green.

Use clean, sanitized pruners or scissors for every cut, as Chicago Botanic Garden and Iowa State advise.

A rest after flowering is normal. Chicago Botanic Garden and Clemson Extension both say orchids often make no new roots, leaves or flowers for a while after blooming, and suggest less water and fertilizer until new growth starts. The AOS keeps watering and feeding as usual. In practice, both lead to the same habit: water when the mix is nearly dry, which will be less often while the plant rests, and feed lightly. Our watering guide shows how to check.

Watch for new growth: a new leaf from the center of a moth orchid, a new shoot at the base of a Cattleya or dancing lady, or a new fan on a slipper orchid. Once you see it, return to regular care.

After blooming is also when the AOS, the RHS and NC State repot most orchids, if the mix has broken down or the plant has outgrown its pot.

Signs that are normal:

• A brown, dry flower spike. Most spikes bloom once, then dry up (AOS, University of Maryland Extension).
• One old bottom leaf turning yellow. A moth orchid grows one or two new leaves a year and loses old ones at about the same rate, per UF/IFAS. Maryland says to remove the old yellow leaf.
• Old pseudobulbs shriveling, or Dendrobium canes dropping leaves. NC State says older Cattleya pseudobulbs shrivel after their leaves fall, and the RHS says some Dendrobiums lose leaves in winter. Keep them: they still store food.

Signs to look closer:

• Roots. Healthy moth orchid roots are silvery white when dry and green when wet (University of Maryland Extension). Mushy brown roots are a problem. See our root guide.
• Wrinkled, limp leaves. Too little water, or roots that rotted and can't drink. Our wrinkled leaves guide shows how to tell.
• A soft, rotting crown. A moth orchid grows from one crown in the center. The AOS says that if water sits there and the crown rots, the plant can't grow a new one. That's the one sign that usually means it's gone.