Orchid care: the complete guide to growing orchids

These basics fit the common home orchids that Iowa State, the RHS and the U.S. Botanic Garden cover: the moth orchid, Dendrobium, dancing lady (Oncidium), Cattleya, slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum) and Cymbidium.

Light. Bright light without hot direct sun at midday is the shared baseline. Iowa State Extension and Chicago Botanic Garden point to east or south windows, and Chicago adds that north windows are too dark and west windows too hot. The orchids differ, though. The U.S. Botanic Garden and the New York Botanical Garden put moth and slipper orchids in the lower light group, dancing ladies in the middle, and Cattleya and Dendrobium in the high light group. Clemson Extension says those last two want about twice the light of a moth orchid. The leaves tell you how you're doing: very dark green means too little light, according to Clemson, Iowa State and the NYBG, and a reddish tinge means too much, per the American Orchid Society and NC State. To measure your window, see our guide to bright indirect light.

Watering. Water thoroughly, let it drain completely, and never leave the pot standing in water. Then let the mix dry somewhat before the next soak. The U.S. Botanic Garden says far more orchids die from too much water than too little. How dry depends on the plant: orchids with pseudobulbs (thick, swollen stems that store water) can go drier, while moth and slipper orchids, which have none, want more even moisture (Iowa State, Clemson, AOS). Our watering guide covers how often, bark versus moss, and the ice cube question.

Potting mix. Most orchids grow on trees in the wild, so they go in coarse bark or a similar chunky mix, never garden soil (Clemson, Iowa State, University of Wisconsin Extension). Bark drains fast and forgives a heavy hand with the watering can, but it breaks down over time. Sphagnum moss holds more water, which raises the risk of rot (Iowa State). Our repotting guide covers when to change it and which mix suits each orchid.

Humidity. Iowa State puts the comfortable range at 40 to 70%, and Clemson at 40 to 60%, adding that most homes are drier than that. A pebble tray, a humidifier or a cluster of plants all help (Iowa State, Wisconsin, AOS). Sources split on misting: Wisconsin and the RHS suggest it, while Iowa State and the RHS's own moth orchid guide say it does little for humidity. A tray or humidifier does more.

Temperature. Most orchids are happy with days of 18 to 27 °C (65 to 80 °F) and nights about 6 to 8 °C (10 to 15 °F) cooler (Iowa State, Clemson, Chicago Botanic Garden). Iowa State sorts orchids into three groups by daytime temperature: cool, 16 to 24 °C (60 to 75 °F), for Cymbidium, slipper orchids and some Dendrobium; intermediate, 21 to 27 °C (70 to 80 °F), for Cattleya, dancing ladies and some moth orchids; and warm, 24 to 29 °C (75 to 85 °F), for many moth orchids. Not sure which group yours is in? Iowa State says to treat it as intermediate. Cymbidium is the cool one: it needs cool nights to set flower spikes, per the AOS and the RHS. For the moth orchid's coldest safe night, see its care card.

Feeding. Orchids need less fertilizer than most houseplants. Iowa State's rule is "weakly, weekly": a quarter strength or less while the plant grows, and the AOS culture sheets agree. Once a month, water with plain water to rinse out leftover salts (Iowa State, Clemson, AOS). A balanced orchid fertilizer is the simple choice. More isn't better: too much feed can mean fewer flowers, per University of Maryland Extension and UF/IFAS. Our rebloom guide covers feeding for flowers.

Iowa State says orchids look difficult but aren't: they just need different care from ordinary houseplants, and watering is the main challenge. Clemson, the AOS and the RHS all call the moth orchid easy to grow. The U.S. Botanic Garden adds the key warning: far more orchids die from too much water than too little.

So the habits that kill orchids are usually kind ones. Watering on a fixed schedule, potting in regular soil or leaving the pot in a saucer of water all keep the roots wet with no air. Check the pot before you water, use bark, and let it drain. That covers most of it.

The leaves and stems tell you more than the flowers, and they're there all year. Start with one question: does it have pseudobulbs, the swollen stems that store water and food (Clemson, NC State, Fairchild)?

• Moth orchid (Phalaenopsis): no pseudobulbs. Its leaves grow from a single crown in the center, and it keeps growing upward from there (AOS). Its name means "moth-like", because the flowers look like moths in flight, per the AOS and UF/IFAS. It's the orchid sold in most grocery stores and garden centers. Our moth orchid care card has everything about it.
• Dendrobium: tall, thin canes, which are its pseudobulbs (AOS, RHS). On hard-cane types the flowers come on spikes near the top of the canes. On soft-cane types, such as Dendrobium nobile, they open along the canes, according to NC State.
• Dancing lady (Oncidium): pseudobulbs, and each one carries a flower stem as it matures (RHS). The RHS adds that Cambria types are the ones best suited to life as houseplants.
• Cattleya: swollen, upright pseudobulbs with one or two leaves on top, as NC State describes them, and Clemson notes they store water. Old pseudobulbs shrivel after their leaves fall, which is normal (NC State).
• Slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum): no pseudobulbs. It grows in fans of leaves, and new fans appear at the edge of the clump (NC State, RHS). Unlike most orchids, it mostly grows in the ground in the wild (NC State, RHS). The RHS separates types with plain green leaves from types with mottled leaves.
• Cymbidium: NC State lists it as the boat orchid. It spreads sideways with new shoots (UConn), and it's the orchid that needs cool nights to flower (AOS, RHS).